Our Hand-welted process

Our hand-welted boots are made in Bandung, Indonesia, one of the premier destinations for traditional handmade bootmaking. Tucked into the highlands of West Java, Bandung has built a reputation over generations as a city where the craft is taken seriously. Small family workshops, skilled hands, and a culture of pride in the work define how boots are made here. It is that tradition and that standard that we built our hand-welted line around.

last selection

The Porter Last (left)

A classic round toe with a low toe box and narrow heel. It runs as a true E width, making it a comfortable fit for standard D and E foot sizes. If you are after a clean, traditional silhouette with a slightly roomier toe, the Porter is the one. Size true to your Brannock measurement.

The Morris Last (right)

A soft almond-shaped toe box with slightly more internal volume throughout. It runs a touch long so we recommend sizing down half a size from your Brannock measurement. A great choice if you have a wider forefoot, standard instep, or need a little more room through the toe box. The Morris width runs generous across all options, so a D width on the Morris will comfortably accommodate many standard E feet.

construction methods

Flat Hand-Welted Construction (top left/bottom left)

Our standard hand-welted construction features a welt sewn around 270 or 360 degrees of the boot. This creates a structured and durable build with a clean, refined profile suited for both everyday wear and more dressed-up occasions.

Storm Welt Construction (bottom right)

The storm welt builds on our standard hand-welted construction, with the welt shaped to rise slightly along the edge of the upper. This creates an added barrier against water and debris while maintaining a structured look. It offers increased weather resistance without sacrificing the overall profile of the boot.

Veldtschoen Construction (top right)

The Veldtschoen method turns the upper outward before welting, creating a sealed structure around the base of the boot. This construction is resistant to water and the elements, offering a more rugged and utilitarian build.

build process

Step 1: Upper Making

Each boot begins with pattern making and leather selection. The upper components are hand cut from the hide, skived for clean seams, and stitched together in a process known as closing. Lining, leather toe puffs, and leather heel counters are added to create a complete upper ready for lasting.

Step 2: Bottoming

The upper is pulled over the last and shaped by hand to set the foundation of the boot. A leather insole, steel shank, and cork filling are added for support and comfort. The welt is then hand stitched, followed by the outsole and heel construction.

finishing

The edges of the sole and welt are trimmed, beveled, and burnished for a clean finish. Hardware is set, the boot is cleaned, and each pair undergoes a full quality inspection before being packed and shipped.